Bar Breton

The new Bar Breton has a winning formula for these troubled times: galettes (buckwheat crepes) in the $10-$15 range and lots of alcohol! Small plates run about $7, and as I found out, at least one of them is hearty enough for a meal. (There are also a few mains around $20.)

In more of an eating than a drinking mood, I tried to go in on Tuesday, but was told that dinner wasn't served until 5 p.m., although the bar is open all day. (I had a similar experience when Bar Milano first opened; not everyone goes the Bar Stuzzichini route of all-day dining. Oh well!) I'm quite determined when I have to be, so I returned yesterday at 5 p.m. sharp. Chef Cyril Renaud was explaining the origin of the multi-colored glasses that hung from the lighting fixture to some inquisitive diners (journalists?). I tried to eavesdrop, but was soon led to a little booth.

Several galettes looked enticing - according to the menu, the buckwheat flour used to make them is organic and gluten-free. I was going to order the Black Forest ham with Gruyere and egg, but then opted for the wild smoked salmon galette. Instead of being spread out over a plate, it was served like sushi. Rolled-up sections of chocolate-brown crepe were stuffed with a mild horseradish-onion cream and assembled in a neat row upon a stone block. Each piece was topped with a slice of smoked salmon and some red onion.

I wolfed it down in about a minute, realizing that I was going to have to order something else! My eye traveled between the "niac" (small plate) section and the desserts. Profiteroles? Pot de creme with chicory? Nutella crepe? Sardines? Or pate? I settled on the salt-baked potato with oxtail and grey sea salt ($7). This was quite a hearty dish, even more so than the galette. A peeled potato had its insides scooped out, replaced with a rich, delicious oxtail stew. Now I was too full for dessert.

But I'm almost afraid to go back, because I've a feeling I'll be a goner once I try the Nutella dessert crepe.

Bar Breton: 254 Fifth Ave., (212) 213-4999.